Tartan kilted skirt
The raw materials for this kilt came from Barb Mulock at Prairie’s Edge Farm, one white fleece and one grey fleece, from her flock of Shetland sheep. The white one was purchased in 2018, and had been washed, but other than a small amount that had been combed and spun (for use in another project), the rest of the fleece was sitting and waiting for further processing. The grey fleece was purchased in 2020, but hadn’t even been washed yet. After the experience of washing the entire white fleece in my bathtub, the grey fleece was washed in smaller sections, and only as much as I needed for this project. Once the OYOO project was announced, I started combing the fleeces, and dizing bird’s nests from the combs, collecting them in large tubs. My plan was to try to comb all the fibre I needed and spin it all at the same time to try to get some consistency in the spinning. A good idea, but difficult to accomplish. I also spun small samples of the white fleece, then tried some natural dye experiments with plants in my yard. Ultimately, as summer was getting short, I focussed on the white fleece to get enough prepared fibre to spin and then dye a large quantity of green yarn. The dyeing plan flip flopped from with Tansy, then to Marigold, then back to Tansy again, with a final iron after bath to achieve the green colour (alum premordant). Then I focussed on the grey – I wanted to get it as dark as possible. I talked to Ash Alberg in September when on the Manitoba Fibre Trail, and she had suggested overdyeing with sumac. I collected/foraged both sumac leaves and candles, and overdyed the grey yarn (no mordant, just naturally occurring tannins), removing the fibre to dissolve iron into the bath, and returning to the bath for the final colour. The white yarn was the natural colour of the fleece, and was the smallest amount needed in the pattern. The fabric was woven on a 36” Leclerc Artisat jack floor loom, and raw edges were overlocked for stability. The skirt was sewn in a combination of machine and hand sewing. The leather buttons were purchased from Hank and Purl, though may be replaced with firmer buttons made of bone or antler, when I can source and make them. The leather buttons tend to fold and curl a little too easily for my liking, and are the only things keeping it on. If I am going to dance in this skirt, I want to make sure it is going to stay with me the entire time.
The tartan is the MacLean of Duart Hunting tartan, an official tartan in the Scottish Registar of Tartans. The MacLean history website claims that it is the oldest recorded tartan in Scotland, and dates to a charter in 1587, but the Registry states there is no evidence to support this.
This skirt, being completely washed, combed, spun, dyed, woven and sewn by one person, took the entire year to make.